South America Trip - part 3   










Things to Watch Out For:

Door are backwards: push to enter, pull to exit.
Latin time is up to an hour behind Western time.
Somewhere in every square and plaza will reek of urine.
Lineups are optional.
Siestas last for 3 hours but can be stretched to last all day.
Graveyards are stacked lockers or archealogical masterpieces.
Everyone tries to exit busses as fast as possible.
Dress for all seasons every day.
Even the remotest of places advertises with posters of scantily clad women.
Bumming it on the street teaches the art of resourcefulness.



Items lost / Stolen:

Kevin´s touque (Mar Del Plata, Argentina)
Lonely Planet (Pan De Asucar, Uruguay)
Steve's touque (Uruguay bus)
Steve's mate cup (Uruguay bus)
10 blank cds :( (Argentina)
Kevin's watch (Bus from Sao Paulo)
Kevin's camera tripod (Rio, Brazil)
Kevin's jacket(Pantanel, Brazil)
Steve's flashlight (??)
Ryan's tripod(Pantanel, Brazil)
Ryan's nice underwear(Potosi, Bolivia)
Lonely Planet guidebook (Some store, Cusco)
Daypack including: toiletries, 2 bibles, food,
good batteries, guidebook (Colombia)
Steve's GPS on last day (Quito, Ecuador)


SA Trip Part 1    -    SA Trip Part 2    -    SA Trip Part 3    -    SA Trip Part 4    -    SA Trip Part 5    -    Thanks Page





 Campo Grande, Brazil Iguazu Falls July 13, 2004

Our last day in Rio, we climbed to the famous Jesus statue that overlooks the city. Everyone is supposed to take taxis or private buses up the mountain but being the cheapest ever, we chose to do the 2 hour walk on foot. Everyone laughed at us and at the top lots of people commented that they saw us and felt sorry (not sorry enough to pick us up though).

The view from the top was pretty amazing. Rio is probably one of the most beautiful cities in the world. The beaches are amazing and there are narrow mountains everywhere with city surrounding them. The official language in Brazil is Portuguese but at the Jesus statue I am pretty sure it is English. If we were the only ones there it would have been a pretty good experience but pushing through all the tourists damped the experience quite a bit. After that it was back to the beach. The waves were huge and people were surfing. We had more fun doing the cheaper alternatives like letting the waves swirl us around and contort our bodies.

After Rio we headed towards the famous Iguazu falls. These falls (supposedly) have the most water in the world crashing over them - I think they are probably right. 250 rivers (Koop says so) combine and crash over the falls at the confluence of 3 countries (Argentina, Paraguay, Brazil). We went to the Argentinian side and had another great experience despite the flocks of tourists. Once we ventured off the path and tried to hike closer to the falls then allowed. One of the security guards got angry at us but to us it was actually more humorous than anything - there are some very convenient times to know nothing about the language.

So after 3 night buses we find ourselves in Campo Grande. The bus we just got off of was the most interesting. Last night Kevin located a bed at the back of the bus where the driver was supposed to sleep before switching off. Kevin slept there for a bit until the driver came back and got really angry at him "you think this is your house?". Later on in the trip a Portuguese person told us the reason for the outburst. Kevin had stumbled upon some drug smuggling. Throughout the night there were people opening compartments and making odd stops along the road. After that, we decided to keep our mouths shut and mind our own business. As much as we didn't want to look interested, it was impossible not to keep one eye open and see everything that was going on. We made it though! We just signed up for a 3 day trek in a region of Brazil called the Pantanel. It is kind of a wetlands area where the best animal viewing in Brazil is possible. Later!

-steve


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 Rio De Janeiro, Brazil Futbol! + Favela July 9, 2004

We started off another day in Rio with a mission. We wanted to get into a favela at all cost. Favelas are shanty towns that are run by drug lords. They can be extremely violent and the police are there every day. Gangs within the favelas fight for power and the thousands of people that live within keep quiet in exchange for favors from the people in power. We heard a rumor that there was this guy who did tours through these favelas so we called him up and for a pretty penny we jumped on some motorbikes and went into this thing. It was totally safe with this guy ok? If there was any trouble he said he would take us down a different path or stay with one of his many friends along the way. So for a few hours we walked around this garbage dump where people somehow survive. Bullet holes line the walls of graffiti depicting the stuggles within their community. Fortunately some of the money we gave him goes to support some relief work like schools and health clincis. What an experience!

Later that day in poured hard so we decided to stay another day in hopes of getting some more sunshine. We decided to go see a movie. We wanted to see Spiderman 2 but it was sold out so we bought tickets for Shrek 2. After a little wit and lack of Portuguese skills we found ourselves sitting in the Spiderman theater anyway. All in a days work! Ok, Brazilians are passionate about life. Imagine the passion you'd expect at a Brazilian soccer game and transfer that into a theater. There is cheering, clapping and they get so into the movies that it is more like a big friendly party. I have never seen people go crazy and cheer at the get the girl parts or laugh their heads off at the cheesiest jokes ever. Luckily for the 3 English speakers in the crowds, everyone had to read the subtitles over the English movie. yay!

-steve


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 Rio De Janeiro, Brazil     Beautiful Rio July 8, 2004

Ok, we had the best meal ever. We keep saying this but this time its true. The place was called Buffalo Grill and it was all you can eat meat and the biggest salad bar you can imagine. The best thing about it is that these garcons come to your table and bring you any kind of meat on these skewers. You can refuse if you want but we took it all in. Words cannot describe just how incredible this meal was. We were da bums eating in this posh restaurant with everything imaginable. It was so posh that they even had dental floss in the washroom! The funniest thing was that one time there was a garcon who was about to take my drink can away when there was still juice in there and I quickly grabbed his hand saying "No! I'm still drinking that!" Little did I know that he was about to refill my other drink glass. I couldn't done it myself but I was too much da bum.

That night we hooked up with my friend Juliana and she took us to our first ever football match! It was so sweet action. It wasn't one of those big league matches but we ended up watching two professional Brazilian teams. The funniest thing heading to the stadium was that there was a huge line of police checking for any guns people might have. Of course we bought the cheapest tickets but edged our way down to the front. We had good seats but we didn't sit the whole game because we found out that in Brazil everyone stands and everyone is supposed to cheer or else they may look at you funny. The crowd cheered the whole game(and even after) and it was funny hearing them yell, scream, shout, swear, sing and taunt. In the end our home team Palmeiras won 4-1 against Juventude.

-kevin

We arrived early this morning in Rio de Janeiro after a chilly overnight bus ride that only took 5 hours. Upon arriving we found an interesting Hostel to stay in that was strategically packed and stacked with rooms. Anxious to get to the beach we headed off to the well known Copacabana. After hours of swimming, fighting off the waves, realizing modesty isn't Rio's strong area we were bound and determined to climb a mountain with out having to pay an outrageous price that tourist would pay.

After trying two mountains and realizing that the military had control of these we decided to go to this mountain called Sugar Loaf where you take two gondolas up to the very top. Not having lost all hope we asked around and found a path that we hoped would lead us the back way. After unexpectedly see small squirrel like monkey and trying to catch them the path ended. We bushwhacked our way up to the part which separate men from boys. The three of us scaled the steep rock face and then when it got too steep and there were no foot holds we almost were defeated, but then we met some local boys that had the same idea to climb up the back of this mountain. Luckily they were more prepared and we used their rope to aid us in our adventure. A gorgeous view is always more beautiful when you have earned it, and have saved 30 R. After enjoying the spectacular view of the city before and after sun set we headed down using the gondola for free. After stuffing ourselves with fruit shakes and food we went and cleaned up to get ready for tomorrows adventures.

-koop


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 Sao Paulo, Brazil Picking up Koop in Sao Paulo July 7, 2004

We finally made it to Sao Paulo after a 28 hour bus ride. The highlight of the bus ride was having no Brazilian currency when the bus stopped for supper. Kevin and I slumped at a table and eventually people just started buying stuff for us. A sandwich then some cokes etc.. We got to Sao Paulo just in time to rush to the airport and pick up Koop. This is it, the three of us are together and ready for the next leg of our journey!

We have been quite impressed with the craziness and the vast amounts of people everywhere. got a great hostel here in the city which was $4 with all you can eat breakfast. Other than that everything is pretty routine - first shower in a week, finding ticks all the time random places which I won't specify, stuff like that. Kevin has been sick for a couple days without being able to hold much food in. His remedy for his illness is to eat as much as possible faster than his body can liquefy the food... Seems to be working.

-steve


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 Encarnacion, Paraguay Confluencing in Paraguay July 4, 2004

The last few days in Paraguay have been more than interesting. Actually most of the time I have been walking around in a daze. I have come to the conclusion that this has been for one of two reasons - either I have malaria or the malaria pills I have started to take are giving me the side effects (we have now entered the jungle type areas of South America). I'm hoping for the later. Anyway, these side effects have been quite instructive and now I can fully describe what it probably feels like to have malaria. First of all, I can eat as much as I want but get no energy at all. Blurred vision, weak muscles, stomach and head ache. All this has really heightened the Paraguay experience. First of all everyone here keeps telling us how dangerous it is for us to be here so I keep hallucinating about people with guns everywhere (most of that is true). I keep seeing poisonous snakes on the road everywhere (Kevin says there hasn't been though).

Yesterday we conquered the first Paraguay confluence ever! It was mostly just walking through a bit of jungle and farmers fields but being doped up on these drugs made it much more of an adventure. I could have fallen asleep along the way in a pile of mud or where ever. Today we are going to check out the old ruins in Southern Paraguay called "Jesus". Supposedly it is an old Jesuit established town. I think people just go there to get their picture with the sign though.

Other than that, our time in Paraguay is up! We got some bus tickets to Sao Paulo, Brazil, for tomorrow morning. When our bus arrives we are going to the airport to pick up Ryan. Then the three of us will continue on working our way to Ecuador. Woohoo!

-steve


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 Ybycui, Paraguay 26S 57W Paraguay Confluence July 3, 2004

I am not exactly sure what happened along the way to this confluence but I will tell the story as best I can. You see, the day before the confluence I decided to start my anti-Malaria medicine and that in combination with lack of food and sleep was making everything really interesting. No energy, random distorted vision bursts, occasional hallucinations - It probably made the journey to the confluence that much more interesting.

Anyway, the confluence is located near the town of Ybycui near a national park. Since we were going to the national park anyway, the confluence venture seemed reasonable. Of course, taking Paraguay local buses to get to little cities isn't the most pleasant experience. Every bus goes about 30 km and then loops around again. So after 6 or 7 buses and all day, we reached the town of Ybycui.

Now of course with most confluence attempts, there is always a really easy way to get to the confluence which you only find on the way back. Of course the way there takes much longer because you go down the wrong paths in a roundabout direction. That was the case here. We walked down a road kind of in the direction of the confluence but of course it curved around. We finally bushwhacked through some farmer's fields and across a couple rivers (this part was a lot more interesting because of the meds) and voila! we made it to the confluence and noticed a road right beside it (the way back took a quarter of the time).

And there you have it! the first conquered confluence in Paraguay!!!

-steve

Area around the confluence point
Steve + Kevin at the point

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 Jesus, Paraguay Chillin in Jesus July 3, 2004

It has been a victory in Jesus today, hanging out with the people of Jesus. I think most people are attracted to the town called Jesus cause of the old Jesuit ruins. I'll admit the ruins are pretty cool. We got a lot of really good pictures.

As we were leaving the town, we heard people singing about Jesus. On closer inspection it was not a town theme song but a church service so we wandered in. It was highly noticeable that people were not able to concentrate at all so they finally stopped for a sec and got us up to the front. They made me speak in whatever broken Spanish possible who we were and where we were from etc... quite embarrassing. After the service everyone wanted to say hi and some old lady was passing around cake - we felt right at home. Kevin got a chance to pick up a guitar for the first time this trip.

We have only been in Paraguay for a short time but this place has so much culture that we have already compiled the "you know you are in Paraguay when..." list. Forgive me if most of these are you had to be there jokes.

You know you are in Paraguay when...

...the cashier at the supermarkado can't make change so she throws a couple candies in your bag.
...you get on a bus that requires you to squeeze through bars to get to the back.
...you date on Monday, Wednesday, on Friday and the other days are open for others.
...the fruit lady waves down a bus to make change.
...all you can find for breakfast is greasy empanadas and deserts.
...95% of the sound coming out of any audible device is "cachaka" music.
...you are trying to decipher the church hymnbook and mouth some words when it is your turn for the mate cup.

-steve


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 Asuncion, Paraguay Bungee and off to Paraguay July 1, 2004

So the day is finally over - but it was well worth it even though I said I would never do it again. But the price was so good ($10 CAD!!!) - so there I found my self looking down over the bridge with the bungy cord attached to my legs. I could hear Kevin counting down from 5 and it was time to fly. The instructor guy had just told me if I jumped head first in a flying motion it would hurt less and I wouldn't hit the water so hard. I don't remember a whole lot after that but it was quite the rush and I recommend it to everyone.

So after our good times in Argentina, today we finally waved goodbye with teary eyes. We weren't even going to go to Argentina for more than a week and we ended up being there over 3 weeks! So what can I say about Paraguay - the place that none of the backpackers ever come, the place where no one has really heard anything about. My first observations are that is definitely in the top 3 for dirtiest SA country.

The country also has a very militant feel. There is an officer of some type with a machine gun on most corners. Lots of people supposedly carry hand guns around too. Paraguay contains the most corrupt city in South America and it is a good place to buy stolen electronics. With all this reputation who wouldn't come here. Look on the bright side - I just bought a bag of 10 or 15 mandarin oranges for less than 50 cents Canadian.

-steve


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© 2012 Steve Gosselin