Phnom Penh Fall 09
 
MUI NE, VIETNAM
DEC 27 to 30
09
 

Desert fun at white sand dunes near Mui Ne

Fairy Springs in Mui Ne

Rock stars at the Cham temple near Phan Thiet

There is no better way for Canadians who are missing snow than to celebrate the Christmas season by careening headfirst down sand dunes on thin sheets of linoleum.

It was almost like tobogganing - minus the cold feet, plus having to shower off a bazillion sand particles afterward. The sand was even white taking us one step closer to having a white Christmas.

We had a brilliant time doing this and playing other sandy games with Amie's parents and friends, Ryan and Becky, in Mui Ne, Vietnam.

Mom and Dad put us all up at a gorgeous beach resort and we spent a few days catching some rays, adventuring to old temples and villages, exploring red canyons, and of course, frolicking in the sand.

This will definitely go down in history as one of the best Christmas seasons yet.

-Amie

 
Parched!
Walking up the river in Fairy Springs
 
Desert sledding
On the dunes
 
Lighthouse in Ke Ga
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HO CHI MINH, VIETNAM
DEC 24 to 27
09
 

Amie preparing to transport cushions to sleepover

Sleepover Crew - Ryan, Becky, Steve, Aimee, Marcello, Dan, Lisa, Bethany, Amanda, Amie, Jocelyn, Jeremy

Biking to creepy worker statue

If you can't be surrounded by family on Christmas, you better be surrounded by amazing friends. Thankfully, that's exactly how it worked for us this year. Friends, Ryan and Becky joined us from Thailand and we and our friends here in Phnom Penh all piled into Dan and Amanda's house after a Christmas Eve service. We stuffed ourselves with Christmas delicacies, exchanged gifts, and completed a perfect Christmas by camping out on the balcony.

On Christmas Day, in fierce pursuit of our love for Ultimate Frisbee, we jumped on a bus and drove and ferried across international borders in time to play in the Saigon Hat on Dec. 26 and 27th. We are that dedicated. The trek was worth it - Ryan and Becky and Steve and I got more than our fill of disc over the weekend. And Amie's parents even got a sneak peak of the insanity, stopping in on Sunday morning to watch their very first Frisbee game.

Speaking of Amie's parents...though we weren't with family for Christmas, it was amazing to have family visit during the holidays! Mom and Dad met us in Saigon and we headed to Mui Ne for a few days. Chantelle met us all in Phnom Penh for New Years. We loved showing the family our favourite spots, including Kep on Cambodia's coast and adventuring on bicycles in search of Khmer Rouge relics (both fascinating and creepy all at the same time). We loved the company and felt deeply loved. It was an amazing Christmas and New Years indeed.

-Amie

 
Amie with creepy worker statue
Sisters hanging out at Sihanouk's ruined summer getaway
 
Four different teams for the ultimate hat tournament in Saigon
Pregame planning for yellow
 
Tired after games all day
Steve's signature blind flick
 
Post tournament award celebration
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BANGKOK, THAILAND
NOV 20 to 22
09
 

blonde mischief

Yummy Pad Thai on the notorious traveller's ghetto, Khao San Road

Reuniting over Sheesha and a Gin and Tonic

bangkok may be my favourite city in the whole world. it is electric. there is an addictive energy to it that keeps me coming back for more. maybe it's the fluid connections between old and new, east and west. maybe it's the street food and delectable curries all at a ridiculously low price. or, maybe i love it so much because it was such a coming of age city for me. it was my first port of call in asia. and i travelled there all by my lonesome for a journalism internship 5 years ago. it was in Bangkok that i knew in my gut that i would never work for the mainstream press. it's where i knew that i wanted to be a voice for the voiceless and to pursue justice with writing and pictures and stories.

so of course i'm ecstatic that my sister has chosen to live there for another few months! this time around, we tried to see how much blonde mischief we could disturb and what we could do for free in this steller city!

amie

 
Our goal was to get to the roof of a very tall building. Mission accomplished. Reward - stunning view
Comments:
Always love your stories and pictures. Enhoy.
  Barb Reeves
  Nov 22, 2009
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SIEM REAP + PREAH VIHEAR, CAMBODIA
OCT 31 to NOV 4
09
 

Exploring other temples at Koh Ker

Mine field recently cleared at Koh Ker temple complex

Amie escorted past the warning signs and up the dilapidated stairs

There are a few things synonymous with Cambodia. Temple ruins. Motorbikes. And Corruption. With a five day long weekend stretching before us, and new-found knowledge that we can take our motorbike as cargo under the bus, we got our fill of all three last week when we hit the road for Siem Reap in search of remote, untouched Angkorian temples. It was a stellar vacation – the unforeseen challenges and (3 hour) detours along the way (like bamboo bridges and sandy cattle tracks) just added to our Indiana Jones experience.

-Amie

As for the corruption part, we definitely helped to play our part in the grand scheme. Sometimes it's the only way to get things done! The main temple at Koh Ker for example has been unclimbable for some time since the collapse of a main access ladder. But you can't just visit an ancient pyramid and not climb to the top! With a little flash of cash, an unofficial young guide materializes to escort you up the ruins while security officials turn a temporary blind eye.

-steve-

 
Who squatted in the river long enough to carve this at Kbal Spean?
Biking on sandy cattle trails (somewhat lost) on the way to Beng Mealea
 
Amie below the mighty Prasat Thom at Koh Ker
Between some old ruins in Koh Ker
 
Danger. Do not drop motorbike in river while crossing.
Lots of tea after motorbiking through a freezing tropical storm to Kbal Spean
 
Relaxing on a stilt platform on the way to the floating villages south of Siem Reap
Comments:
Sweet, you found it! I've been meaning to go looking for Koh Ker sooner or later -- after Bung Melea I've decided the temples only get better the further from Siem Reap you go. Maybe you could give me some tips next time we cross paths.
  James
  Nov 10, 2009
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PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA
OCTOBER 3
09
 

30 meter makeshift climbing wall

Steve on the wall

The entire wall and construction site

There are hundreds of ways to end the sentence 'Only in Cambodia.....'. So how about this one? Only in Cambodia can you get approval from an active construction site to temporarily set up a climbing wall.

There were three activities after completion of the site. The first was to climb up the wall similar to an indoor climbing gym except you're outside and climbing up 30 meters (so not really the same at all). The second was to weave through the construction crew (actively working) and take a view from the roof of the tower. The third was to rappel down the side of the building without catching your knee on a rusty nail.

-steve-

 
Amie on the top of the construction site, following all safety and security regulations ;)
Steve rappelling off the building (like in the movies)
 
Steve in the construction site
Comments:
This is too funny! Awesome!
  Becky
  Oct 06, 2009
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DOI INTHANON, THAILAND
SEP 17 to 24
09
 

Victory after scaling (by moto) the highest mountain in Thailand

Amie on the overnight train Bangkok to Chiang Mai

Jumping off waterfalls into uncertain turbulent waters

One of the best things about living in Asia is the no-frills budget airlines (and we mean BUDGET, like you pay for everything but your seat - extra baggage, drinks, etc. We're surprised they don't charge you to use the bathroom), like Air Asia.

We had a few days off over Pchum Benh, so we flew for $30 each to Bangkok, then jumped on a night train to Chiang Mai, Thailand to visit great friends Ryan & Becky Koop over the holiday.

It was a blast. It always changes one's traveling experience when you know people in a place - it is just a million times better.

After a couple of days in the city, trolling the night market, playing ultimate with the Chiang Mai crew, and eating copious amounts of amazing Thai food, we took to the hills. This is the summary of our very fun (and wonderfully chilled) time on Thailand's highest peak, Doi Inthanon.

 
Two old friends shootin' the breeze late one night
Ecolodge guesthouse bed for 4!
 
Beautiful Scenery up Doi Inthanon
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PHNOM BASET, CAMBODIA
SEPTEMBER 5
09
 

Amie and Steve cruising down the wobbly tracks

The bamboo train before departure (no bamboo on this one)

Temporary market on the tracks

Some travelers have heard about the Cambodian bamboo train but few have experienced it. The Cambodian railroad is due for serious repair. The service has degraded to a once per day freight service chugging along at 20-30km per hour. Entrepreneurial Khmer families have opened their own (illegal) services on sections of the track and built contraptions out of old rail cars and wood to shuttle local people back and forth between certain points on the track.

As Amie and I were moto-exploring one afternoon, we stumbled across one such service and decided to bring some friends back and make an adventure of it. We got up early one Saturday morning and rode out to the start of the bamboo train, negotiated our passage to Phnom Baset, strapped our motos onto the platform and off we went. This particular bamboo train was powered by an old engine, set in motion by a rubber belt stretching from the engine to the wheel axle. The conductor's tools included a grooved stick for controlling the tension of the belt as well as a battle club shaped braking device.

As we zoomed along at 20km/h, the nature of our unscheduled journey resulted in others not respecting our control of the tracks. For example, a cow slept peacefully in between the tracks at a certain point in our journey. The conductor's assistant was quick to leap off the train, shoo the animal, and rejoin the group while the train was still in motion (don't want to stall the engine). Intersecting dirt roads caused some tension. The train had to come to a crawl while traffic paused to let it through. Trucks parked near the tracks or temporary markets across the tracks are other obstacles to overcome on the bamboo train.

After reaching an intersection with a road towards Phnom Baset, we reclaimed our motorbikes and explored the various temples in the area. One in particular had an amateur film crew making a television program set to air later in the month. Let me emphasis the 'amateur' part. The crew and actors consisted of 4 people - a charismatic director, a hand-held camera man, some other helper, and an actor dressed in pink with a power amulet around his neck. This character had somehow transported to the future (our present) and basically the film involves him having a set of shocking futuristic experiences. As we sat to have a snack and watch, the director asked if he could use our motorbikes as props. At this point the script must have been re-written to include these futuristic devices, sure to scare the time-traveler.

Near a different temple, a makeshift carnival style balloon dart toss was set up to entertain temple guests. Prizes consisted of various Chinese made plastic housewares - much more practical than stuffed animals. The ride home through the small dirt paths was scenic and peaceful. The recent rains presented some challenges but we were lucky to avoid getting our motorbikes stuck. On our way into the city, we found a new suburb construction project. It was abandoned so we did some drag racing down the main streets of the future complex.

-steve-

 
Loading the motos on the train
Passenger list - Steve, Amie, Aimee, Ed, Dan + some local commuters
 
Hang over, but don't catch a passing tree!
Shooing the cow off the tracks
 
Steve, Ed, + Dan riding the bamboo train
Phnom Baset view of temple with Phnom Penh in the far distance
 
Dan ready to toss for housewears
Comments:
This looks incredible guys!!
  bex
  Sep 08, 2009
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PHNOM PENH, CAMBODIA
AUGUST 29
09
 

The whole crew - christine, ed, amie, steve, dominic, aimee, jocelyn, amanda, dan, charles, rebecca

'Intellectual birthday candle'. Not only does the lotus flower burst open with lit candles, the contraption also sings.

hairy shirt and losers always lose, always

Steve and Daniel happen to have been born just two weeks apart. In honor of both turning the big 2-8, we hosted a joint birthday party exactly halfway between both of their real birthdays.

The ticket to get in? A Bad-English T-shirt (these are a dime a dozen in Phnom Penh, available at every market and on street corners.)

We spent the evening celebrating Steve and Daniel and the great shirts we'd all managed to snag for the occasion. No birthday celebrated in Asia is complete without homemade toaster oven cake and an "Intellectual Birthday Candle". It lives up to its name as candles burst out of the centre of a lotus flower (breaking every fire code regulation) while singing "Happy Birthday".

 
Dan + Amanda sporting some choice pics from BKK market
America isn't big enough for this leader
 
Translator needed!
Comments:
what a great party! (we should consider making it an annual event)
  amanda
  Sep 11, 2009
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Updated 01-25-2009     © 2009 Steve Gosselin